Chiang Mai Chicken Khao Soi

Method

1. 01

   Dry and temper the chicken

   Pat drumsticks dry and leave at cool room temperature for 20 minutes. Make one 1 cm-deep slash along the thickest side of each so heat reaches the centre evenly; keep raw utensils separate.

   

2. 02

   Separate coconut cream

   Spoon 250 ml thick coconut cream from the unshaken cans into the curry pot and measure the remaining 550 ml separately. Whisk curry paste, turmeric, coriander, and cumin in a small bowl.

   

3. 03

   Fry the northern curry base

   Simmer coconut cream over medium heat 6–8 minutes until glossy and reduced. Add the paste mixture and fry 4–5 minutes, stirring constantly, until fragrant and a little red oil appears; do not let the spices blacken.

   

4. 04

   Coat the drumsticks

   Add drumsticks and turn in the paste for 5 minutes over medium heat, until skin is fully coated and loses its raw look. Arrange them in one layer with the slashes facing down.

   

5. 05

   Build the coconut broth

   Add remaining 550 ml coconut milk, 600 ml stock, fish sauce, and palm sugar. Scrape the pot, bring to a bare simmer, and turn the drumsticks so liquid reaches each slash.

   

6. 06

   Braise until chicken is tender

   Cover slightly ajar and simmer gently 35–45 minutes, turning once at 20 minutes. The deepest meat beside the bone must reach 74°C and a fork should enter easily without the flesh falling off completely.

   

7. 07

   Rest chicken in the curry

   Turn off heat, keep drumsticks submerged, cover, and rest 15 minutes. Skim only excess surface fat, leaving enough red aromatic oil to form small droplets in each bowl.

   

8. 08

   Prepare dry garnishes

   Squeeze pickled mustard greens until no liquid drips, then chop to 1 cm. Arrange with dry shallots, lime wedges, and chile oil in separate bowls so no garnish waters down the curry.

   

9. 09

   Heat frying oil safely

   Put frying oil in a deep pot no more than one-third full and heat to 175°C. Keep a lid nearby, dry all utensils, and never add wet noodles to the oil.

   

10. 10

    Fry the crisp noodle nests

    Separate and pat dry 180 g noodles. Fry in six loose 30 g nests for 45–60 seconds each, turning once, until puffed and golden; drain on a rack and verify oil returns to 175°C between batches.

    

11. 11

    Boil the serving noodles

    Bring 4 L water to a full boil. Loosen remaining 720 g noodles and boil in six batches for 60–90 seconds until just tender with spring; drain each batch for 20 seconds and place directly into a warm bowl.

    

12. 12

    Reheat and balance the curry

    Return curry to a gentle simmer for 3 minutes. Taste after reheating and add up to 10 ml fish sauce only if needed; the sauce should be savoury, warmly spiced, lightly sweet, and fluid enough to surround noodles.

    

13. 13

    Build six balanced bowls

    Place one drumstick in each noodle bowl and ladle over 250–300 ml curry. Top with one crisp noodle nest; serve mustard greens, shallot, lime, and chile oil on the side so diners add them without making the crisp noodles soggy.